I really want a chemrail.
Port shields. Deflector dish. Coffee pot in the goat locker.
Or it needs to be float tested for calibration purposes.
I’d send it back. Getting into the meter i mentioned would be, IMO, a bit spendy for this. For me, its a backup tool i use for my work.
So 30, 30, 15 indicates either a possible problem or by the time the meter was on the one that read 15amps, the spike in theb current draw at motor start had already passed and now that motor is turning and has momentum , you were at the downslope or past that inrush curve .
You mentioned seeing 1.7 on the voltage readings across all 4 combinations od phase readings. What i neglected to ask or did not hear because i was driving and reception was crap at the time. Was the range and number of digits the meter can display.
If it is being reported as 1.7V actual, there is either a problem with the controler not sending proper voltage, or the meter is really borked. The fact that you had to treat a standard clamp as an open jaw meter (“tuning fork”) makes my confidence very low due that piece of Chinesium.
Somehow I missed the results of when you turned that encoder around 180.
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It didn’t fit, man…
@JarJarJava is correct. It does not fit securely since the bolt down tab gets in the way of the metal on the motor. However, I tried it as best as possible and it did not change anything. I moved forward with the new speed sensor, which also did not change the results.
Swapping two phases get the same result. I didn’t see that result either.
Don’t expect meaningful results testing high frequency vfd outputs.
I may have missed this. I just got your inbox message but have not had a chance to do anything with the vehicle. Im at my desk job right now until 2-3pm 
.
So I should swap one of the phase wires to the motor? Like U-V or V-W? I don’t mind trying any and all requests. Also, the controller does not blink. I noticed you said the controller would blink if it had a fault. There has never been an issue with a controller that did not blink? 
Also, this forum does not allow videos. At least not from me.. I might try to upload the video of what I’m currently working with to YouTube and post the link (if that’s allowed), this afternoon.
Fair enough Dave. I think I even posted that earlier here or maybe it was in a PM and between the crappy cell connection the other day and having to dodge 18’ wide 45-ton harvesting equipment doing 8 mph on a 45 mph road, I forgot to ask specifically if it was spinning the wrong direction.
@JarJarJava @AssyRequired @Inwo
Here is the video link of the cart with pedal fully pressed down (same speed forward and backward). In this video it was in Forward. In reverse the cart wants to go backwards. In forwards the cart wants to go forward.
I see the problem…
Tires. They’re balder than Patrick Stewart dressed up as Kojak for halloween.
And that is at 100% on the throttle, eh? With only one end having a bearing with the other being open, there’s no easy or safe way to detach and spin the motor under power, I’m starting to run out of options here. I’m not that familiar with the Sevcon controllers nor do I have a license / hardware key for the programming software and IIRC, my eM uses an old style Polaris Ranger pedal - don’t think it’s canbus like the FWD vehicles, those are the two coming to mind, but I can’t look at either one here for reference. Dave, my mind is going…
Hey, just had an idea…
I recall you said the Rabbit & Bert key switch position didn’t change anything. but can you get into that box and just bypass it entirely? or at least jumper around it? I’m thinking maybe it got wet at some point and you have a permanent high impedance short that is driving the throttle voltage way, way down to this crawl speed.
Or maybe someone got their hands on a the Sevcon programming software and accidentally turned the max speed / governor setting, or other related setting, way, way down.
Only one speed on 2016+ cars. Few parameters can be programmed as these are proprietary controllers and firmware for Polaris “road” cars. They can be programmed with lower speed limit, unlikely, as car would run as normal up to the limit.
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That Rabbit/Turtle key is not what is causing this creep issue.
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Understood, thanks Dave. Yeah, if someone had meant 10 mph and accidentally left off the zeo and only keyed in 1, that rotation isn’t even enough for it.
It was just an idea that hit me once I remembered about the on-base speed limits and how forklifts, yard dogs and even some container stackers had their governors turned way down.
Canbus too, eh?
I miss analog.
Now that the 14.1V converter issue is potentially fixed, which you can probably check simply by turning the key to run and turning on the headlights, can you re-check charge voltage at the stash battery (the mini dash battery)?
I just found out about the GEM OEM lithium pack setup having a second voltage converter, the 12.5V one you found first, being for that and not some weird 3rd party vehicle converter add on for the emergency lights. I kind of threw that idea out there, so my bad. At least we didn’t let the magic blue smoke charge out yet.
Small 12v battery shows 13.7v.
Side note… When I check the B- terminal to M1 I see 23.8v
v. Same thing for M2 and M3 (U,V,M), when I hit the pedal it shows roughly 24v for each. When I check B- to B+ it shows 49.1v. I know yall are saying this reader won’t read these motors well… but can we get any data from that? @Inwo does your controller input/output for your 2016+ show the same voltage?
I don’t believe you can get any meaningful readings from M1 etc.
ps. A good sign that all read the same. Same with encoder. If A&B both read the same.
As you like to buy new toys, I can link you to a nice little scope that will read encoder outputs.
Can you redo the 3-phase measurements as follows?
M1 - M2
M1 - M3
M2 - M3
3-phase is measured between itself, not to source (B- / B+ in this case)
I didn’t realize the call was cutting out that badly yesterday.
Good news on the Grogu Battery!
