Yea, this main disconnect was unhooked from the Selonoid. I wonder if that would have caused it to not run or charge properly lol… 
Extremely helpful! Thank you sir!
Also, the hood was off for an unknown amount of time in the elements. Which is where most of this corrosion came from Im sure.
And maybe a quick bath or two 
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FYI, If you can get all the acc. working, but no drive. I can supply a jailbroke Sevcon. It will run motor independent of Polaris bs. Bmc, Vcm, canbus, etc.
Good copy, sir. I had everything working accept drive and charge capability before this issue was known. If I can get at least the charging back in operation (but no drive), I will reach out!
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Oh that’s right. Water does sometimes fall from the sky on that side of the country.
I actually saw it once. Most people think I’m nuts.
… they’re probably right.
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In most cases the charger controls must be bypassed. For sure in a lithium conversion. The long charge time burns up both the 48v fuse holder and the charger relay. The relay is only used the allow the bmc to “tap” a new charger profile. Jump the two large female spades. Any intermittant contact with the 12v coil side will be an expensive mistake. Careful!
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The good news - I got rid of the faults and It charges! Main lithium Battery is strong. It was sitting at 79%. So hopefully major damage was avoided.
Bad news- I noticed it does not charge the 12v battery. I have checked all the fuses and don’t see why it does not want to charge that sucker. Any ideas?
Also, I likely need a new transaxel/diff/gearbox (can’t remember what they call it on these lol) for the motor. It’s trying to move the wheels but I can tell it’s just not grabbing. It moves extremely slow. Plus, when it’s not on I can move one wheel while it’s on a jack and the other wheel does not turn the opposite direction or at all… I’ll likely need to buy a new one.. (maybe time for an upgraded one and upgraded motor.. need to look into prices).
All in all, I think the good news outweighs the bad. 
No idea. I have an eM1400, they never had a 12v aux battery.
Have you pulled the wheels off and checked if the brakes are bound up? Also how are the wheel bearings?
If it is a gearbox issue, depending on what went kabloey, Rodney @Old_Houseboater may be able to rebuild the differential.
IIRC, gem offered 2 AC motor options back then. Your elxd should already have the bigger one. Motot swaps aren’t as simple as they are on the older gems. Depending on the brand of gearbox installed (there were at least 2 different brands used) gear ratios can be changed, but any change will introduce taller gears which will reduce your hauling capacity and torque.
Thanks for adding In Rodney.
For the Wheels.. I recieved it with the brakes locked to the rotors. I had to take the calipers off just to roll it off the trailer. Right now the calipers are back on without brake pads and are able to move freely.
For the battery.. I can always just put a lithium battery 12v 100AH under the hood and charge it at a later time.. Annoying but not going to put too much effort into that right now.
I will start dissembling the front end tonight/tomorrow to see if I can see any fun metal confetti bits or other little surprises.
So, the DC converter is only throwing out 12.58 volts. Confirmed by checking the battery maintaining 12.58 with lights on. So, just bought a replacement for that. The converter is receiving 48vs.
So the tally of what you have to replace so far is brakes, calipers, parts of the wiring, solenoid, voltage converter, differential, hood, motor, back door on the cargo shell, 15" black rubber dildo…
It’s a shame they didn’t let you float test this thing before you bought it.
All doors were good. I found the hood when I went to pick it up. So, brakes, calipers, rotors, 12v battery dcdc charger, transmission, and fix a couple wires.
Vehicle was $400 - not $800 (They only charged me 5% instead of 10% of what they said they paid for it (not always accurate). Plus maybe $1000-$2000 for future parts. I’ll be out $1,400-$2,400. I would do it again in a heartbeat ,sight-unseen. The rest of the cart looks to be in super good shape. . Plus I’m not afraid to tackle (and have a gut feeling @AssyRequired for repairs at times) lol.
Did converter seem new? What does it say on label? 13+ volts. 12.58 may be ok at battery, if it goes up when key on. Delta voltage is what’s an important test. Not actual volts at battery.
Oh shit, Ultron is here…
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It’s an open diff, so when the GEM is on blocks, and you get touchy feely with a tire, the other one should spin opposite direction. Does it look like the brakes were under water? The hub bearings at the wheels are not waterproof. You may have a crunchy one.
A throttle pedal issue is possible, Inwo or AssyRequired is the better person to talk to on this.
Do you have an amp-clamp? What is the amperage on the 3 phases going into the motor at, say, 75% throttle? A 10% ish difference between them is not a big deal, looking more for if your motor is single phasing.
Any chance that Bugs Bunny & Bert the Turtle key switch may be the culprit here? You said you found the key, right? Kick it over to Bert’s court and what is the behavior? Still ducking and covering?
One would think most issues would throw a code, what is the voltage on the pack during all of this?
There used to be a polaris operated site with all the part diagrams, and maybe it was a different site, but you could order digital manuals, now that I think about it, I just have to look for the link.
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2019 is a Sevcon controlling a 3 phase ac motor.
I believe I mentioned motor/controller previously.
Throttle issue will show a fault, as will a problem with motor encoder.
Sevcon uses 35p connector. Dual hall throttle will not fail without setting a code. Each hall output has discrete 5v supply and output to vcm. 6wires total. One is .5v to 2v, the other is 1v to 4v. No connection from throttle to controller. Torque demand is sent from vcm to controller via can-bus.
Count blinks at controller led to read an encoder fault. Dash will display throttle fault, if any.
Bad or miswired encoder will cause motor to not run. It will just jerk forward or reverse. Do not try to force it or you will damage expensive parts. If unplugging encoder makes no change then that is the issue. 4 wires. 10v supply plus “A” and “B” signals offset by 90°. Only the 10v supply is easy to test with meter.
Ac motors are bullet proof. Will run under water. Only rust and debris damage or bad bearing will cause it to overload. Pull it apart for inspection. No brushes to worry about.
Amazing information Inwo! I can’t thank you enough for your knowledge on these…
I disconnected the 4-pin connector to the motor and it did the exact same thing. Slow motor speed. Controller did not blink- stayed solid green the entire time. No faults shown on the dash.
Will a new encoder require a tech to reflash anything with a tool? Or, now I need to look closer at that VCM…
Also, I ran the motor for about 30 seconds and the wires and fins were not super hot. Must have been a lot of tests combined yesterday. I pulled the motor yesterday as well and it looked super clean inside. Spun freely. Splines looked good and now have some new grease.
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The rabbit and the turtle settings go the same speed.