2013 Motor Stuck on Shaft. Any advice?

Yeah, pretty simple. Uses less than a quart. Don’t overfill.

OEM spec is 30W . Allegedly they did this to get more range. Most here Probably run 75-90 to quiet the gears down. While it won’t hurt anything, I don’t feel that synthetic will give any advantages in a low speed, low heat, low pressure situation like these gearboxes. I just run plain old auto parts store house brands oil.

Can’t tell from the photo, is that dirt or a crack running along the oil seal? Around the midpoint between inner to outer edge?

Shaft splines look kind of ok in these photos


Tried getting a better photo. Now dumb question but when you guys keep saying remove the plug do you mean the fitting or the black rubber circle plug below the spline? And when you say once you start pumping oil into it and will see it come out the hole which hole , the one behind that black plug? Or do I have this all wrong and I"m supposed to be removing the cap on the exterior part of the transaxle on the other side? Hope my lack of knowledge on this at least helps someone else in the future lol. Thanks for the help

Not the plug in this photo. The plug on the gear cover (typically black, kind of pumpkin shaped) It’s sort of underneath.

Shaft and seal look good to me in this photo.

yep - should be facing the back of the car - about 45 degrees down and left from the photo above.

Thank you, was not even thinking to look underneath for the plug I assumed you guys had meant originally it was behind one of those dust caps.

My F1 and F2 cables aren’t long enough to reach the new motors connections. Should I try unbolting the controller and turning it or am I better off just getting longer cables ? Thanks

Just extend them -

More words to make the post long enough

If you can rotate that is fine. Also did you check the brushes on this motor?

did not check the brushes, pretty much do you just take the casing off and make sure they are riding up and down easily and not getting stuck ? File them if need be but is their anything else you do to them to make them operate smoother?

Thats the original seal. Replace it.

1 Like

Clean the holders with a file. Sand 010 off all 4 sides of the brushes. hit all 4 corner bevels lightly. !80 sand paper.

1 Like

That motor has to be disassembled to clean the brushes. The proper way is to use press to remove the armature out of the bottom of the motor. DO NOT TRY TO USE A PULLER ON THE COVER. It’s tender. If you break the fan I stock a few.

1 Like

I agree with LG. It looks like all your cables going to the motor will benefit from a little extra length by the time they get to the studs. When going to tighten the wires you ARE backing it up by putting a wrench on that bottom nut - Yes?

Hard to tell but will your B- move over to the other side and come out a bit longer to handle the swap OK?

1 Like

But you know what I love about this forum - all the different input!
I would say that I am more old than I am young, and you would think by now that I would know this but everyone see different things when they look at a problem or a picture. Things I would complete overlook someone else see first. Never ceases to amaze me, in a good way.
@Old_Houseboater @AssyRequired @JarJarJava


Thank you , as soon as I can get back around to this I will be in touch, appreciate the help

Absolutely, I would have sold my Gems hadn’t it been for this page and the help troubleshooting most of the problems i’ve encountered.

… And to think, this bunch of guys on the internet that you’ve never met, all came together for your shaft.

1 Like

The original pics looked like there was some water ingress into the motor. I would seriously look into how water might have gotten into there and see if there aren’t rubber curtains missing which should have stopped that. Good to grease it up none the less.