Aloha,
I learned that there is more than one color of a multimeter, thank you everyone… 
The battery voltage at battery pack is 76.3V and that is the same when I test the battery positive and negative up at the dash.
Apologize if this sounds remedial, but where exactly am I supposed to put the positive and negative from the multimeter elsewhere with the dash removed? I don’t want to mess anything up more so…
Dead center of the dash is the fuse panel. This block is called the PSDM and is the nerve center of the car where all 6 of the various harnesses plug in for distribution to other points in the car.
On the front of the unit are some big orange cables attached to studs.
The one on the left (driver side) is B+ (marked as +72v)
There are two on the right (pass side) and are basically the same
In most cases either one can be used for testing as a reference to B-.
Attach your meter to these points, take a reading with Main Batt Switch ON, then again with KeyON. What do you see?
Ok, so I placed multimeter pins on both of the 72+ and 72-. It reads 76.3 with main power on, key off and exact same reading with the key on.
K- Is it still doing all that clickety-click with key on?
No clicking, but the display doesn’t turn on with key on. The display illuminates for a split second and then goes dark. (Wiper was on initially and slightly moved as well when display lit up) Nothing works. Anything next to check?
My 08 won’t have the contactor engage until the throttle is pressed, it does not engage when turned on and ebrake is released.
So, when I turn the ignition switch on, the digital display illuminates for a flash moment and then goes back to dark. Nothing works—the car doesn’t engage, nothing works. While I have the dash off, is there anything else to check or a part, fuse, piece, wire that may be the cause?
Set your meter to read 12vdc (most likely a 20v scale)
Main Bat Switch ON
Black meter probe on the Chass Gnd (dash frame is OK)
Red meter probe on PSDM terminal S6 (see pic)
(there will be a Red/W wire on this terminal connection OK to pull it off for this test.)
You should be reading ~12v dc.
Continue to hold probes on those points, Then KeyON.
What does meter show when you turn key ON?
Okay, so I think the clicking is still there. It doesn’t immediately click, but it does when key is ON about every 3 seconds—sounds like coming from somewhere in this area I’m doing the probe test.
I have this Fluke 115 multimeter that has a DC mode and it’s supposedly supposed to automatically switch to 12V but it doesn’t seem to be. When I’m on that 6th terminal it reads about 62V and then when it clicks it jumps up to like 70V
Ok. Read all instructions carefully. You are missing some info.
Confirm where you are putting black probe?
Main Bat Switch ON
Black meter probe on the Chass Gnd (dash frame is OK)
Red meter probe on PSDM terminal S6
(Key is OFF)
What does your meter show?
Then KeyON
What does your meter show?
Got it, you are correct.
13.45v key off
About 5v key on when clicks says OL
That’s better.
It is also exactly what I wanted to see when Key goes on. For now, leave key off.
Now, What do you have in the junk drawer that can run a bit of a load. Looking for something like an old 50w off road light. Maybe a replacement bulb? How about a trailer light bulb?
Like just a bulb or a socket too?
Just a bulb if you don’t mind holding on to it for a couple/10 seconds.
If all you have is a tail light, it would be a first test. a headlight, or fog light is is better. (like a H1 halogen).
Your converter is producing 12vdc. It can be seen on P6.
We also see that 12v takes a dive when Key is switched on.
The Surepower DC Converter has built-in short circuit protection if over current occurs.
I am trying to determine if there is a short somewhere in the Keyed ON system that is not protected by one of the fuses or the regulator in the DC Converter has failed and not able to produce even the slightest amount of current needed to switch on the keyed accessory systems.
By testing the constant ON (without switching the key) it gives me a bit more info on where the fault might be.
Ok and where exactly do I hold this bulb to? And with key off, correct?
Yes- KeyOFF
Main Batt Sw ON
One leg of the bulb on the Acc Tab S6 (where you had the meter probe)
Other leg of the light on ChassGnd (Dash Frame)
Light should go ON and remain consistent.
Do you have any idea how many watts this test bulb is?
Hi,
Idk if it’s because I don’t have a trailer light, but I have a turn signal that has a ground wire and a power wire, when I press the ends of the wires against the S6 tab and the chassis ground nothing happens. It doesn’t light up. But when I check the S6 tab and chassis ground with my volt meter, it has power.
This is exactly what I wanted to see happen. Can you do this with the meter still hooked up?
If this takes a dive with only a trailer light, then something has failed in your DC Converter. Replace that DC Converter.
Ok I’ll try in the morning with the meter hooked up.
If so, is this pic the DC converter you’re talking about?
Yes, that is the one for your car.
