Im getting a code -06 on my 2002 GEM E825. I hear contractor click with key on and all switches work. When in fwd nothing moves and rev. When in neutral and accelerator is pressed I get the code 06.
Throttle ohms out 6.5k - 0.0 and clean sweep through throttle range.
Any ideas?
06 - GEM Error Code - Cause: accelerator pedal closed safety lock out release pedal before selecting fwd or rev.
This might give you an idea untill one of the others has a chance to chime in…
Check the throttle pedal switch.
So I check the throttle safety switch in the throttle assembly, looks like a micro switch. Normally open. OL when at rest, 0.0 ohms full continuity when depressed. I can also hear a slight hum noise as if the signal is reaching the motor/ controller.
The description of this issue is a little confusing.
It sounds like you are saying there is NO CODE when in FWD and REV, but when switched to Neutral it throws a -06?
-06 - The accelerator pedal is depressed with no direction selected.
It sounds like your pedal and controller is working perfect.
But when I apply my remote technician filters to what I see so far, it looks like these conditions exist.
If conditions above are true, I suggest focusing your attention on the motor.
How long has it been since this car was run? -or- How long has this car been sitting?
Push/roll the car back and forth several times. as far as you can. If you have a floor jack, lift the front wheels up off the ground so they can free spin.
Try running the car in place. If the car stutters and jerks horribly, then do not continue this for long.
Report back here with your results and further instruction.
That is correct, I I am only getting that code 06 when I am in the neutral position. When forward or reverse no code is present but wheels do not spin when throttle is depressed. I agree the switch looks like it’s in working order. The car was lifted up on a jack and wheels spin free by hand with no issues. There is no stuttering or jerking. When throttle is depressed in either forward or reverse wheels Do not spin at all like it’s stuck in neutral from throttle switch.
No, It’s not because of throttle switch. (There is another code for that)
– When was the last time this car was working properly?
– When was the last time the motor was serviced?
– Do you have a handheld digital voltmeter?
I suspect that you did not try this?:
Push/roll the car back and forth several times.
If both wheels are currently off the ground, Turning one forward will simply spin the other one the opposite direction due to the differential gears. This is not exactly what I wanted to do (which is to spin the motor).
Have someone hold one wheel while you turn the other. If an assistant is not available, wedge a couple blocks of wood under one wheel to lock it in place.
Yes, I have a digital multimeter. I am unsure when the last time the motor was serviced as far as the last time the car ran about four or five months ago. Batteries are good. I rolled the vehicle back-and-forth and it spins the tires just fine. nothing gets bound up or wound up. I’m not sure what I’m looking for when moving the car back-and-forth.
Not looking for binding at this time (that is another issue).
If the car has not been used in a while, the comms oxidize and tarnish. DC motors hate sitting.
Rolling it back an forth has a chance of cleaning it off a bit so the brushes make contact. You might need more than a couple feet.
The second thing that happens is the brushes stick in their holders. This is more of a “sat for a while, worked when I turned it on, but quit after a day” scenario.
Do this test next.
Prep
Front wheels off the ground. (prepare to run in place)
Locate the big connections on your motor marked A1 and A2.
Fasten your meter probes to those connections.
Set your meter to the 200vdc scale.
Try and run your car(best if an assistant presses pedal).
Watch for voltage on your meter.
How high does V it go? (what is that V?)
When pedal is lifted all the way up, Does voltage immediately drop to near zero?
-or-
does V remain high and slowly count down?
First off thank you so much for helping me with this.
I tested the voltage between A1 and A2 with my multimeter and when I press the throttle, the voltage went up to 72 V in both Forward and reverse.
I’m with you. I’m gonna guess that the motor brushes on the Commutator are either stuck or glazed over.
Nope- sorry. Go to jail. Do not pass GO. Do Not collect $200.
Note that you totally missed the second part of the test.
Yes- it is important.
(Edit: I rewrote that test procedure if it was not obvious. Special attention to what happens after step 6.)
- When pedal is lifted all the way up, Does voltage immediately drop to near zero?
-or-
does V remain high and slowly count down?
Motor is bad. Open loop between a1 and a2. Bunch of corrosion on stator.
Voltage slowly went down after pedal lift.
There you go. That is what I was getting at.
Motors don’t usually go bad from just sitting
Pull your motor.
Check the brushes.
Clean the comms.
Check again.
Thank you again for the assistance. I was given this project, and he told me it sat. Clearly longer than what was previously mentioned.