I won’t go too crazy yet.
I need to see if this thing even goes.
It’s in pristine condition but has been in storage for at least 8 years
Couple questions since I’ve never seen this 825 actually work.
My current status
Do I need the charger in to make it run?
I have pos lead going to fuse side of magnetic switch. I have neg lead going to neg side of controller.
I have 80v coming out of the BMS
I have 80v at controller with key off
I have some voltage and continuity passing thru the mag switch even when it’s open?? Which is giving me 80v at the controller
If I take off the ebrake and have it set to road mode it buzzes even with key off
With the key in on position I get no life No lights on the counsole turn the key to on position seems to do nothing
Help!!
Is it as simple as I need the new charger hooked up. I hope so
The old charger had two small interlock wires. If you connect those together car will run. Those wires must be found in any case for the new charger.
Search for jumper interlock.
Thanks Dave
I mess with it tomorrow
Do I need the charger in to make it run?
Yes and no. As Dave explained it is wired in for the interlock loop. Without it, the car thinks it is charging and will not move. You can fool the car into thinking all is right by jumping the wires.
I have 80v at controller with key off
I have some voltage and continuity passing thru the mag switch even when it’s open?? Which is giving me 80v at the controller
This has thrown me off a couple of times too. If you recently turned on the key and back off again, what you are observing is a precharge stored up in the controller. There is a separate circuit that slowly charges the capacitors to soften the big pow when the main contactor is told to close.
If I take off the ebrake and have it set to road mode it buzzes even with key off
This is normal. With key (off) it is assuming you are getting out and since you left the brake (off) the car is capable of rolling away and it may not be there when you return. I don’t think it matters what mode it is in. Search downhill and listen for a faint buzz in the distance.
It should stop if you set the brake (on).
If it also buzzes with the key (on) then it is telling you that the charger cord is plugged in or someone stole your charger.
See above comment ref interlock.
With the key in on position I get no life No lights on the console turn the key to on position seems to do nothing
See above comment ref interlock.
Here’s a pic of my Zivan before I pulled it out
After reading past posts. I’d say the the green wire and green and red wire are for the interlock.
So all I need to do is join them. Right?
And thank you @AssyRequired for your input
Correct, the new charger from Michael will have wires that connect to these.
The new charger supports the interlock for your Gem. There will be 2 stripped wires, connect those to the green and red and green and you are good to go.
Special thanks to @Inwo and @LithiumGods for setting me up for success.
I Wrapped up the lithium conversion today.
Made a plywood floor and sealed it with
Gorilla rubberized coating.
Had to add a 3/4” spacer to mount the new charger too. And slide over the voltage regulator box to make some additional space.
Went pretty smooth. Only drawn back is my garage was 90 degrees all day!
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Looks good. Did you have to do any cutting in the rear to get it to fit?
There was a aluminum tab on the frame that was sticking down kinda under the back seat.
. I whiz wheeled that off.
I also trimmed a few inches off the rear plastic fender. The fender poked forward in between the rear shock as and it interfered with the battery.
And two metal tabs that supported the portion of the rear fender I cut off. I just bent Those tabs
Down and out of the way.
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OK- got some test driving in.
Hits 38-39mph with 3 adults on a flat road.
I didn’t see a difference in speed between half charge vs. full charge.
Its plenty fast. everything seems to work fine except the brake lights - should be an easy enough fix.
The speedometer reads accurate speed - I guess the previous owner modified it?
Time to track down some insurance and get it on the road!!
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Ok. Brake lights are more of a pain then anticipated.
The top of the brake pedal switch has a double wire. Orange w/red stripe. This I think should be a positive feed. But it’s dead
The other side of the switch together is a red wire and a brown wire with blue stripe.
The red wire I traced back to the over head break light. When I add Positive feed to the red wire it lights the overhead brake light.
When I test the blue brown wire it has continuity to ground
Help!
Yup- it looks like your double wire set (Org/R) is your power wire. It should have a fuse over at the fuse block. Look for the wire over there.
The (Blu/Bk) wire goes into a Signal Stat module and muxes the signal to to the proper corners of the car depending on the inputs it receives. I don’t know much about it. If it is a direct short to Gnd, it would explain why your fuse is blown. If it has some other resistance then feed it another fuse and see if it eats it.
holy cow - finally found the fuse block. what wild goose chase that was.
in the front hood compartment area, jammed up in the corner under a few layers or rubber sheets that had some screws holding them down.
found the popped fuse - added new fuse and everything is working properly.
I wasted an hour tracing wires and ■■■■■■■■ - If I had only know about the elusive fuse box sooner!
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No one expects the elusive fuse box!
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