I think I killed him. He hasn’t been seen in 3 days?
I originally had instructions typed out all working from the little white plug and thought better of this and did not post. I then rewrote so that black meter probe is attached to battery post at the blue wire connection instead.
I may not have been clear enough?
Yes you were, I was only remarking that part because I was the one that used to test the pins with both probes in the connector and… Ive learned the hard way
I’m alive @AssyRequired . Sorry for the extreme delay here, life got in the way a bit.
| Pin | Voltage |
|---|---|
| 0 | |
| 1 | 3.963 |
| 2 | 7.92 |
| 3 | 11.89 |
| 4 | 15.85 |
| 5 | 19.80 |
| 6 | 23.76 |
| 7 | 27.71 |
| 8 | 31.47 |
| 9 | 35.62 |
| 10 | 39.38 |
| 11 | 43.4 |
| 12 | 47.4 |
| 13 | 51.4 |
| 14 | 55.3 |
| 15 | 59.3 |
| 16 | 63.2 |
| 17 | 67.2 |
| 18 | 71.1 |
| 19 | 75.1 |
| 20 | 79.1 |
| 21 | 83.0 |
| 22 | 87.0 |
| 23 | 25.6 |
| 24 | 27 |
| 25 | 87.0 |
its a 22s battery so 23 and 24 aren’t used. The rest look good. Looks like you just need a new bms. Get the one for 24s not the 20s one
Thank you @LithiumGods ! Is this the correct one?
yes that will work aaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
Thank you. I have ordered a replacement from the link referenced.
Hopefully there is a way to transfer configuration from one device to another.
@LithiumGods and @AssyRequired thank you for all the help.
The replacement BMS should be here shortly, is there a way to transfer the configuration over from one BMS to the other? Or should I start trying to take screenshots of everything now to get to to match up?
Screen shots of your present settings is always a good idea.
Start with basic Lipo settings and custom tune from there.
Settings page with Adv tab open, One/two pages are all you need.
With your battery, start with the LI-ion default and build off that. Feel free to call me if you get stuck. You bought the battery from me so I have all the settings.
@LithiumGods so you did a hell of a good job making up the bus bar that connects the negative from the battery to the BMS, but I don’t think I have the skill/tools to remake it.
The BMS uses two 7AWG cables, which, if my math is right, comes to an effective 4AWG connection. If I take 2AWG cable that I have on hand, crimp an eyelet on one end to connect to the battery, and then a butt splice on the other to both of the 7AWG wires from the BMS, then solder them for good measure, would this work?
Not sure if I am over or under thinking this.
I have seen a few different generations of that connector bar. I see a corner of it in the pic, but not the whole thing.
(pic please)
Me(personally) likes the fewest connections as possible.
So, I went a different direction.
I didn’t want to experience this water ingress issue again, and our NEV lives most of its life outside and can be exposed to Florida downpours. I wanted a bit more protection than just the vinyl cover again.
I got an IP67 box and put the BMS inside. To connect all the larger gauge wires, I went with 3 port Polaris connectors. This combined the two on each side of the BMS with the battery- and the P- I used 2 Gauge wire and ran out the Polaris connector, through a cable gland and to the battery and the fuse post.
I ran the connectors through cable glads for all the individual cell wires and while not watertight as it’s a multi wire situation, it’s definitely pretty well sealed. Once I decide I am happy, I’ll likely silicone around all of the glands.
So far, I am using the default lithium profile, and have been updating a few of the values that are different from the original profile screenshots I saved. A few don’t seem to want to send/save, so I will continue working on it. Connected up the charger and all seems to be doing well, likely will take it out for a drive tomorrow.
