# No errors but no go **URL:** \ **Category:** GEM Forum\ **Created:** [May 3, 2023, 10:49pm UTC](https://community.electricforum.com/t/no-errors-but-no-go/26316 "2023-05-03T22:49:59Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 6\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![png](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/58f4c7/32.png) [@png](https://community.electricforum.com/u/png)\ **Post date:** [May 3, 2023, 10:49pm UTC](https://community.electricforum.com/t/no-errors-but-no-go/26316/1 "2023-05-03T22:49:59Z")
I have a 2002 Gem that I bought a little over a year ago with about 700 miles on it. I installed new gel batteries and a Delta-Q charger and have had over 1,000 trouble-free miles as a daily driver. Came to a stop sign this week and it just quit. Wouldn’t move (well, until I pushed it out of the street) and didn’t make a sound. The display works and there are no error codes. I have the Repair and Maintenance-Service Manual and I’ve gone through the checklist for the Drive and Power System Troubleshooting. When I turn the key on I get the expected -04 error which goes off when I release the handbrake. I hear the expected “Clunk”. With no error codes, I ran the following steps with a volt meter. At steps 4 and 5 I get 78V. At step 6 I get 76V. At step 6 at the Motor Controller B+ connection I get 77V. The chart tells me this means I need to replace the controller. Before spending a lot of money, I’d like to consult the experts here to confirm I’m testing correctly. The connection at the top right of the controller is labeled B- on the cable. I am assuming the connection on the left is B+ but I’d like to confirm as it isn’t labeled. Also, are there any further tests I can do to confirm I really need a controller? I’d hate to replace it and still have a problem. ![PXL_20230501_210433400.PORTRAIT](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/uploads/electricforum/original/2X/3/348c7c37e323e2cd1797378616263bb8abbbc70b.jpeg) ![PXL_20230501_210629593](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/uploads/electricforum/original/2X/7/7a0b3383adca187fd7f91c0995c2bf2a1e9d781a.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![dougl](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/b19c9b/32.png) [@dougl](https://community.electricforum.com/u/dougl)\ **Post date:** [May 3, 2023, 11:14pm UTC](https://community.electricforum.com/t/no-errors-but-no-go/26316/2 "2023-05-03T23:14:12Z")
Does anyone recommend smacking the side of the motor with a hammer to see if a stuck brush falls back into place? Unlike later model motors which have a removable venting band so you can see and service the brushes, the earlier model motors are a bit of a PIA to deal with. Also, has anyone used an Ohm meter to measure continuity through the brushes to verify none are stuck? FYI, I had a car many years ago which would not turn over the starter motor every now and then. But an old ax handle and a 5lbs sledge hammer got me back on the road many times. Also loved the looks when people would see me whacking what they thought was my engine. ---
**Author:** ![JarJarJava](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/user_avatar/community.electricforum.com/jarjarjava/32/15158_2.png) [@JarJarJava](https://community.electricforum.com/u/JarJarJava)\ **Post date:** [May 3, 2023, 11:31pm UTC](https://community.electricforum.com/t/no-errors-but-no-go/26316/3 "2023-05-03T23:31:56Z")
> [@dougl](#): > > Does anyone recommend smacking the side of the motor with a hammer to see if a stuck brush falls back into place? I highly recommend driving over the top of 00-04 gems with a bulldozer ---
**Author:** ![png](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/58f4c7/32.png) [@png](https://community.electricforum.com/u/png)\ **Post date:** [May 4, 2023, 12:09am UTC](https://community.electricforum.com/t/no-errors-but-no-go/26316/4 "2023-05-04T00:09:38Z")
Yeah, that was funny the first dozen times. Not so much anymore. I would imagine something like stuck brushes in the motor would at least make a sound. No? I get nothing, as if something just came disconnected. If that something is a failed component inside the controller, then I’ll deal with that. Just want some kind of verification if possible. ---
**Author:** ![Inwo](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/user_avatar/community.electricforum.com/inwo/32/1067_2.png) [@Inwo](https://community.electricforum.com/u/Inwo)\ **Post date:** [May 4, 2023, 12:43am UTC](https://community.electricforum.com/t/no-errors-but-no-go/26316/5 "2023-05-04T00:43:03Z")
Most controller problems set a fault code. Ohm out motor. Check wires at controller, but first clean and lube them as per ge manual. Pins to measure. 1 and 2 need b+ Then check forward or reverse wire for b+ All are active high iirc. The start switch p 3 when pressing throttle. From memory. Look up the pin numbers. Chack in circuit by piercing insulation near controller. ---
**Author:** ![JarJarJava](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/user_avatar/community.electricforum.com/jarjarjava/32/15158_2.png) [@JarJarJava](https://community.electricforum.com/u/JarJarJava)\ **Post date:** [May 4, 2023, 3:24am UTC](https://community.electricforum.com/t/no-errors-but-no-go/26316/6 "2023-05-04T03:24:50Z")
> [@png](#): > > Yeah, that was funny the first dozen times. Not so much anymore. That’s just like, your opinion man…