# Bad Motor Controller?

**URL:** <https://community.electricforum.com/t/bad-motor-controller/26986>\
**Category:** Ford NEVs\
**Created:** [September 28, 2023, 3:25pm UTC](https://community.electricforum.com/t/bad-motor-controller/26986 "2023-09-28T15:25:56Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 5\
**Page:** 1

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![C4202K2](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/49beb7/32.png) [@C4202K2](https://community.electricforum.com/u/C4202K2)\
**Post date:** [September 28, 2023, 3:25pm UTC](https://community.electricforum.com/t/bad-motor-controller/26986/1 "2023-09-28T15:25:56Z")

</div>

I have a Ford Think and recently replaced the motor with a D&D motor and various other components. All was good and it was working fine. I let it sit for a couple of weeks with the master switch off (to not let the battery drain) and now when I turn on the master switch (without the key in the ignition) the cluster turns on (will not shut off) is unresponsive and after a few more seconds the headlights kick on without the multiswitch being touched and/or in the on position. If I do turn on the key switch the contactor is not pulled in and the cart will not move. Thinking it might be a voltage issue I checked my battery voltage on each battery 12.3-12.5v and as a total of 76.2v.

I’m curious if this sounds like controller issue or something else entirely. Given it has been over 100 degrees for what seems like forever and the temps are falling again, its time to figure this problem out and get my Think back up and running.

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![FordThinkOwner](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/flex030/user_avatar/community.electricforum.com/fordthinkowner/32/13355_2.png) [@FordThinkOwner](https://community.electricforum.com/u/FordThinkOwner)\
**Post date:** [September 29, 2023, 6:02am UTC](https://community.electricforum.com/t/bad-motor-controller/26986/2 "2023-09-29T06:02:17Z")

</div>

I’m certinaly no expert on electrical issues although I have had my Ford Th!nk since 2007. In the past I’ve relied on Scott at Electons in Motion for electrical issues. He is located in Lodi Ca and this is his web address: [Electrons In Motion Link](http://eim-llc.us/). He is quite knowledgeable about Ford Think NEV’s. 916-334-2099. Hope this helps

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Videoguy](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/v/838e76/32.png) [@Videoguy](https://community.electricforum.com/u/Videoguy)\
**Post date:** [September 29, 2023, 11:14pm UTC](https://community.electricforum.com/t/bad-motor-controller/26986/3 "2023-09-29T23:14:39Z")

</div>

Do you have another cluster you can try?

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![C4202K2](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/49beb7/32.png) [@C4202K2](https://community.electricforum.com/u/C4202K2)\
**Post date:** [September 30, 2023, 12:55am UTC](https://community.electricforum.com/t/bad-motor-controller/26986/4 "2023-09-30T00:55:28Z")

</div>

No extra cluster, but I’m tempted to purchase the cluster bypass kit. Given the cluster turns on you think it might be there? I’m wondering if the external DC/DC converter got zapped?

---

<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![C4202K2](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/c/49beb7/32.png) [@C4202K2](https://community.electricforum.com/u/C4202K2)\
**Post date:** [October 7, 2023, 4:28pm UTC](https://community.electricforum.com/t/bad-motor-controller/26986/5 "2023-10-07T16:28:30Z")

</div>

Found the problem. I guess I forgot to tighten the positive and negative battery cables going to the contactor. With some driving these became loose and thus my gremlin appeared.
