2016 e4 - Build Plan?

Sure, you’ll love this. Nothing to do.
Just connect the charger to B+ and the black bms wires.(also the load)
Everything goes through and is controlled by bms. Shunt and switching is built in.
You can read charging amps on LCD main screen. Also discharge and regen.

True 2 wire connection to the car. That easy.

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Well that’s simple enough!! I’ll have to mess with it more once I get it in the car but so far AWESOME. I feel luck and honored to have this pack!

I’ll probably need help with settings when I get into it.

I might buy one of the cases you put the battery in. Then I can drop it off with a welder to make me a new battery tray.

What custom wiring do I need to do when I pull the controller? Wasn’t there something about changing the directional switch? Will anything on the factory display work anymore or is that doa after the swap?

There are lots of things to do to get switched to 72v and generic controller.
I can build you the harnesses to make it easy.
The throttle and switches need to be wired to controller. The hardest part was finding a good way to power the controller from the key switch. Polaris has everything going through their ecm. Grant and myself tried many ways. Hope he remembers.
Dc converter needs to be rewired to dci charger.
Charger output through gem bms relay needs bypassing.
I think that’s about it.
Motor leads are identical.
All coming back to me now.

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Every thing works except speed.
I may try to get Mike to hack that.
I make a kit to display speed on bms LCD if you want.
I couldn’t pick a good place on the dash for it, so just laid it on top.
We may not have connected e-brake or interlock. Ask Grant.

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I might buy one of the cases you put the battery in. Then I can drop it off with a welder to make me a new battery tray.

When you are ready for that maybe I can help. LMK.

Hi Dave. I live near Ernie in San Diego and I am interested in the same set-up should you choose to build one again please let me know. I also have a 2016 E4 Thanks! - Steve Springer

I just sold the last Tesla3 that I built. Building another is in the works. It’s a big job, so it all depends on finding the free time.

Ernie is going all in with big motor and 72v conversion.
Might be best to see how you like his. Grant is the only one I know who went all in, and drives daily.
Do you know if Ernie’s battery fit ok?

@Erniea15 is slacking… Work, kids, and boats… haven’t been able to dive into it. I’ve got 99% of all the parts I need so check there. I also want to get my old 2000 converted back to DC so I can list and sell it, then I’ll dive in. Trying to not have too many open projects going at once.

1-2 weeks out from starting to gut my 2016. Don’t worry, I’ll start a new thread so folks can follow… I’m sure I’ll have questions.

@smspring has a couple of bad cells. My wet cells can go to him and keep him running until lithium. Trying to convince @AssyRequired to come down and help me with a custom battery tray. Getting there!

Might be more like 98% of the parts. The rest is wiring.
With luck, I may work on my 2018 at the same time, or @grantwest will get us some picture of his.
The two things that are fuzzy are the charger and key switch. Both are simple circuits, but we had lots of trial and error to get the key to power the Sevcon. Seems strange now that I think back, as it’s the same controller.

Stupid brain:
@MikeKC did I remember to have Ernie’s contactor programmed to 48 volts? He may need to return it if you’re not sure. Grant’s file could be either way, as I burned out his oem contactor by not getting the key switch to turn off power to controller.

I’m going to pull the controller out of my 2000 this weekend, I can send it back. I feel like we messed with other settings trying to get the 5kw motor to work but you guys would know better than me. Would rather load with the latest and greatest config just to be safe.

Ps. Was zipping around in the old one the other day and the controller went into limp mode towards the end of a 1.5 mile hill climb. That under the dash controller location for the early legacy gems is terrible for cooling. Hopefully I didn’t cause any damage to it.

@Inwo
I 99% sure that controller sent was 70v pull in and 60v hold on the contactor. I never even crossed my mind that he might be using 48v. @Erniea15 you do only have one controller correct?
But is is not using 48v is he (currently or in the new 16’)? I thought he put in your Tesla battery?
Either way a quick ship back and fourth and we can take care of him. I have made some additional coding tweaks to the DCF that I feel are drivability improvements.

Going in my way back time machine I remember you talking about having to jump a wire (I think from 12v) to get the car to power up with the new controller - but I could be way off base.

One controller. It’s in my legacy 2000. Plan is to pull it out this weekend and then repurpose for the 2016 with the telsa battery. So 72v contactor now going to 48v. Let me just sent it back so we’re sure. Send to you or Dave?

You can send it to me, unless @Inwo has the extra time or want to check anything else.

I will PM you the address:

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I just thought of it too. Using the original contactor will need to be set to 48v.

I happen to have an extra orange 72v 400amp contactor sitting around. Just throwing it out there… Better to change the contactor or the settings on the controller?

Better for us to change and keep the programs standard.
Easier for you to not change it.
I plan to use the 48v in mine. It’s a simple line of programming.

Jumping on this, i was quietly following it. I’m back to my home and almost ready to start.

I was planing to use a new contractor for my 25s battery but I just saw here that the sevcon can be programmed to use the 48v one? Maybe I got it wrong

Yes, but it needs to be programmed to correct voltage. Nice thing is that it has two settings.
Pull-in and hold. A dc coil will hold in at half voltage so setting it at say, 3/4 will keep coil cool.
Sevcon will not work with special economizer coils, as it’s built in.
Either of us can change it. Or anyone with a programmer.

Is this a high voltage conversion of a new Gem?
Are you aware of the rewiring needed? I don’t know where we left off.
We have not been using the Gem vcm or can. The throttle and direction signals need to be hard wired to the new sevcon.

I don’t want to use Earnie’s post to go deep into my build but yes, I’ll convert my 2016 to a high voltage, I’ve got the Sevcon and motor from you guys. You also sent me a board to plug and play but it will be for old gems. Wondering if you have something similar for 2016+… Also got a quiet transmission from Rodney that I’m planing to test too. (Like the one @MikeKC has right now)

I’ve bought a hv solenoid.
I didn’t get to the of the wiring yet. I remember you told me the Throttle was going to be hard wired and not sure what else. I was planing to ask you when I reach that part.

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